If you know what to expect from a coffee out of Nyeri, Kenya... then this is exactly what you’d want, and exactly what you’d expect.
On average, the 700-some members of the Kamoini group harvest under a half-acre each. They deliver their cherry to their local Kamoini mill, just as they’ve done since 1988.
That little Kamoini mill, in turn, is one of the 17 wet mills associated with the bigger Othaya Co-Op. First the coffee gets pulped and washed in River Ichamama water, then dried on raised and shaded beds. From there, it travels a few kilometers to Othaya HQ in Gatuyaini, where it’s prepped for export. Othaya handles the finances and the exports just as they’ve done since the 1950s.
The coffee itself is mostly SL28 and SL34, varieties that Kenyan growers have favored for their cup quality and relative hardiness since they were developed in the 1930s.
It’s easy to consider all this, and think: there’s really nothing surprising here. Just the usual beautiful fruit acidities, and the uncommonly clean cups.
On the other hand, Nyeri is known for surprises. When the young Princess Elizabeth climbed the ladder to her bedroom at the nearby Treetops Hotel in 1952, she didn’t expect to be waking up a queen.