We drove through miles of tea plantations to get to the Tumba washing station, the air redolent of vetiver and sweet grass, and it was after dark when we arrived. And there was Venustre Mugraneza, wrench in hand, working on his pulper by flashlight. He's a teacher, revered in his community, and his care and attention to detail is what has made the Tumba (always a good coffee, now a great coffee) a standout in recent years.
This is the only coffee we buy from this northern region of tiny Rwanda and although combination of fresh and dark fruit that we love in Rwandan coffee is here (plum, kir royal) so is a distinct herbal quality and dense notes of molasses.